How to use Pigments

 

Colours are optional for every skin tone. A client’s needs are always considered and this is a general guideline for choosing colour in semi permanent makeup for lips, brows and eyeliner

 

EYEBROWS:          NEVER USE BLACK!

Chocolate Brown is the darkest shade to use on brows. It comsists of ½ black ½ brown.

Use Deep brown, Dark Brown, Brown, Expresso, Coffee, Mocha, Light Brown

Golden Brown and Taupe.

 

Chocolate Brown

Use this colour for Asian, African American, Latino and/or olive skin persons. A light brown wash can be added to achieve a softer look. Add red or orange to prevent any grey/blue tones.

 

Dark Brown (Ash Base)

This colour is lighter than chocolate brown. Can be used with all skin tones, mostly Asian, Latino and/or olive skin. Adding orange or light brown will produce a more natural look.

 

Brown (Reddish Base)

Mostly used for people with red hair because the warm red tone in this pigment compliments red/brown shades of eyebrows. If skin has a lot of yellow tones, this colour will add a warmer, brown tone.

 

Light Brown (Golden Base)

Used for persons with highlighted hair, light skin or younger people for a softer look.

 

Golden Brown (Golden Base)

Soft muted colour for light browns to blondes.

 

Taupe (Yellow Base)

For persons who have blonde hair and fair skin. Also used for younger persons enhancing the eyebrow shades.

 

Grey

For people with salt & pepper grey hair.

 

 

EYELINER:

 

Use Midnight Black, Wet Black, True Black, Jet Black, Chocolate Brown, Black, Blue and Green.

These eyeliner pigments can be used according to the person’s preference.

We suggest no colour lighter than Chocolate Brown.

 

Midnight Black

Blue base and will fade out to a blue/black.

 

True Black

Consists of violet and red which stops fading and colour change.

 

Wet Black

Consists of red which keeps a slight shine and darkness.

 

Jet Black

The only carbon-based pigment in the Bio Touch range. It holds longer in the skin and is used to outline all body tattoos.

 

Chocolate Brown

Comprises ½ brown and ½ black pigment.

 

Blue and Green

These colours appear much darker in the bottle and do not hold well without the addition of black.

If your clients chooses Blue or Green it will require multiple applications to achieve the degree of colour required or add a drop of black.

 

LIPS:

Use Blush, Red Wine, Pink Mauve, Rose Red, Burgundy, Japanese Red and Dark Red.

 

(Note: It is important to check on natural lip colour to determine usage of pigment.

  For lips with very little natural or no colour

  • Use Rose Red for a soft look. Or Pink Mauve or Pink for more colour
  • For a more dramatic look, use Red Wine, Japanese Red or Red.

For lips with rust or earthy lip colour

  • Use Rose Red, Blush or Dark Red. Add Beige or Skin to create a softer look.
  • For a more dramatic effect try Red Wine, Japanese Red, Burgundy, Strawberry or Mystic Red.

For lips with a dark brown or purple tone use

  • Strawberry, Pink or Japanese Red.

The above lip tone tends to turn all pigment into a brown colour. Use Red or Orange to prevent this from turning too dark. Lips will still be able to have a nice rust shade if desired.

 

Red Wine & Burgundy (Blue Base)

Avoid mixing Burgundy with Dark Red. Burgundy has blue base Dark Red has brown base. 

 

Rose Red

Use on fair skins.

 

Blush Or Dark Red (Brown Base)

Mostly used on people with olive skin but when used on dark natural lip colour it might turn into a darker brown shade.

 

Pigment Do’s & Dont's

 

Pigment Do's:

Store pigment tightly sealed and in a cool dark cabinet.  Always shake bottles well for proper disbursement of colour.

 

Determine if your pigment is a ‘Cool’ or ‘Warm’ based pigment prior to use.

Using multicolours on one procedure will create a much more realistic effect but will take more time.

 

Mix colours using your lightest colour first, followed by your darker colours. You will mix less pigment.

 

Each application of pigment builds colour volume in the skin i.e. gets darker with each application.

Use pigments with a macron range of 6-8, this should ensure against possible migration of the pigment in the skin. All Bio touch pigments are in this category,

The undertones of all black pigment starts out blue based, but with True black there is red and violet added to counteract this happening, therefore this colour will always stay black. Wet black has red added to give more of a shine effect whereas True Black is a matt colour.

 

‘Patch test’ clients with known sensitivities/allergies to cosmetics, drugs etc.

 

 

Pigment Don’ts

Colours from the same manufacturer can be mixed together. Try to keep organics to organics and iron oxide to iron oxide. DO NOT mix colours together from different manufacturers unless specified by the manufacturer.

 

Never reuse or save used pigment, it may be contaminated with bacteria and/or body fluids.

Do not use a ‘Red Brown’ pigment around the eye area as the eyes will appear bloodshot looking. Never use lighter colour than a Chocolate Brown which is ½ black ½ brown.

 

Do not use body tattoo colours purchased from the internet or from regular tattooist as they are different to those used for semi-permanent cosmetics.  However, semi-permanent cosmetic pigments may be used for body tattooing.

 

Do not look at your colour through your pigment bottle. Plastic bottles tend to pick up a yellow or greenish cast from the plastic. To view correct colour, open the bottle and view colour.

If your client wants a ‘blue-toned’ healed colour, do not add any other colour to their ‘cool’ pigment formula.

 

If you are concerned about blacks ‘appearing’ blue, patch test the client and wait 4-8 weeks for a final assessment of colour.

 

Do not add White to lighten pigments for the face. If your client ever has Laser on the face the pigment will turn Black. Only use White for petite body tattoos.